
The impact of recreational boating on aquatic ecosystems is significant. Fish, shellfish, sea birds and other forms of aquatic life require a balance of nutrients, oxygen and clean water to survive. Even small quantities of toxic products in the water can disrupt this balance, with lasting harmful effects.
The volume of hydrocarbon and oil pollution entering New Zealand waters from recreational boating is growing every year. An estimated 30 percent of all fuel and oil used in two-stroke engines ends up in the water. We can reduce these threats to the ecosystems by careful attention to routine boat maintenance and use.
Earth-friendly boat maintenance
Here are some tips which can help ease the environmental impact of routine boat maintenance:
Keep a supply of oil - absorbent rags on board for spill cleanup of oil and fuel. Even small spills of oil can contaminate a large volume of water.
Properly dispose of used oil and filters - facilities are available to handle these elements which are toxic to the marine environment
Keep used solvents separate from used oil - never mix wastes, or pour hazardous wastes down drains, on the ground or into surface waters.
Wax your boat - A good coat of wax on a fiberglass hull prevents surface dirt from becoming engrained. This will reduce the need for detergents when you wash your boat. Pollen, dust, spores, or salt occur naturally and will do no harm when they are washed into the water.
Wash topsides only - Limit dock side hull cleaning to the above water surface area only—from the boot stripe up. Use a sponge to effectively remove light growth without creating the clouds of heavy metals usually caused by scrubbing. Rinse your boat with fresh water.
Use non-toxic cleaners - many cleaning products contain phosphates and other chemicals that are toxic to aquatic ecosystems. Before using products with hazardous warning labels, such as skull and crossbones, try a natural cleaner like vinegar.
Examples:
Fiberglass stains - make a paste of baking soda and water. Use a sponge or soft cloth and gently rub the mix into the stain. This paste can also be used to clean onboard showers and heads. While baking soda is an excellent all-around cleaner, keep in mind that it is abrasive, so use with care. Use lemon or lime juice as a final wipe-down for a shiny, fresh-smelling finish.
Windows and mirrors - mix vinegar, lemon juice and warm water. Fill a spray bottle with the solution. Spray it on your windows and wipe with paper towels or newspapers.
Chrome - use apple cider vinegar on a soft cotton cloth to rub it clean. Then, use a fresh cloth with a dab of baby oil to restore it to a bright shine.
Brass - Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and salt solution
Copper fittings - make a paste of either lemon or lime juice and salt. Rub gently to clean.
Stainless steel - clean with a cloth dampened with undiluted white vinegar.
Aluminium - using a soft cloth, clean with a solution of cream of tartar and water.
Plastic surfaces - use a mixture of one part white vinegar and two parts warm water.
Decks - use a mixture of one part white vinegar and eight parts warm water.
Interior woods - can be cleaned by using olive oil or almond oil. The oil will provide natural moisturizers for the wood and add shine at the same time. Don’t use these oils on exterior surfaces, however, since they don’t hold up in direct sun.
Antifouling Paint
Most antifouling bottom paints are harmful to marine life. The newest coatings are formulated to have a less toxic and less long-lasting effect. Silicon, Teflon, and other "nonfouling" paints rely on a slick surface to inhibit growth rather than on toxic ingredients to kill growth.
There are three main types of antifouling paint in use:
Ablative - "sloughing" paints are partially soluble; the active ingredient is constantly leaching out which exposes fresh paint.
Hard antifouling - "contact leaching" paints which create a porous film on the surface. Biocides are held in the pores, and released slowly. It has extended antifouling properties with limited leaching or sloughing of toxic metals into the marine environment.
Teflon/silicon coatings - produce hard, slick surfaces to which fouling growth cannot attach. These non-toxic coatings are the most environmentally-friendly option; however, they are not widely available, nor as effective as the biocide-based paints. Paint companies are moving toward the broad introduction of non-toxic slick paints.
Hull Cleaning - Hulls painted with ablative paints should not be cleaned in the water, as the scrubbing action will release paint and its associated biocide. If using a pressure washer to clean the hull, the pressure should be set at the minimum level needed to remove the slime. Hulls painted with hard paints may be cleaned in the water, but care must be taken to use the least abrasive material possible.
Marine-friendly painting tips:
Do you need antifouling paint? - antifouling paint is expensive and toxic; you may be able to do without it. Try using regular paint and a coat of slick bottom wax. If you have a small boat, you can avoid using antifouling paint by storing the boat on dry land. If you keep a boat in the water for prolonged periods, scrubbing the bottom with a long-handled brush once a month may be sufficient.
Use ‘hard’ bottom paint - this reduces the amount of toxic paint which sloughs off your boat bottom. Refrain from hull cleaning for a minimum of 60 days after applying ‘hard’ antifouling paint.
Use a tarp or drop sheet - when scraping or sanding the bottom, use a tarp to collect the old flakes, which are still hazardous.All sanding and scraping of the boat should be done away from the water, if possible. If it’s a breezy day, use part of the tarp to form a windbreak; this prevents the flakes from blowing off the drop sheet. Collect all paint residue and correctly dispose of it at an appropriate waste facility. A vacuum is useful in cleanup and containing of the small particles.
Paint brush cleaner - Non-toxic, citrus oil based solvents are now available commercially under several brand names, e.g. CitraSolve. Paint brushes and rollers used for an on-going project can be saved overnight, or even up to a week, without cleaning at all. Wrap the brush or roller snugly in a plastic bag. Squeeze out air pockets and store away from light. The paint won’t dry because air can’t get to it. Unwrap the brush or roller the next day and continue with the job.
Mix paints and other liquids on shore and have only small amounts open on the dock or boat at any time. Mix paints well before decanting to smaller containers, to ensure consistency. Keep open paint can inside a larger plastic bucket - this gives you more protection against spills. You can also set the paint can lid on the larger bucket lid, and it will be less likely to be stepped on or kicked into.
Properly dispose of old paint, solvents, and thinners at an appropriate household waste facility. Do not dispose of paint or chemical containers in regular dumpsters. Before you throw away any left over chemicals or paints, ask around to see if someone else can use them.
Marine-friendly boating tips:
Buying a new engine? An estimated 30 percent of all fuel and oil used in two-stroke engines ends up in the water. Manufacturers around the world are responding to this concern by developing four-stroke marine engines, lean-burn two-stroke engines, and fuel injection systems which greatly reduce the amount of oil and fuel entering the water and air emissions. A four stroke is also quieter, smoother and easier to use. Since it runs cleaner, there is also less fouling of spark plugs, one of the things that make engines hard to start. Fill portable fuel tanks on shore; never fill them on board. Take them ashore or on a fuel dock where spills are less likely to occur.
Don’t overfill fuel tanks - fuel expands as it warms, and excess fuel will escape through the vent line. Rough seas can also cause spillage from over-full tanks. When filling a built-in fuel tank, use your hand to check for air escaping from the vent. When the tank is nearly full, you’ll feel a distinct increase in air flow. That is the signal to stop filling. Don’t trust the automatic shutoff on the gas nozzle; the fuel filling nozzle should be attended at all times.
Close the vent - on portable gas tanks when the engine is not in use or when the tank is stored.
Avoid pumping out the bilge - use absorbent "bilge pillows" which are designed to absorb petroleum products and repel water. Disposable cloths also work for this purpose. Check to see if your marina offers a bilge pump-out service.
Recycle fluids - ask your marina if they recycle fluids. Use a drain pan to capture used engine or out drive oil. Do the same when changing the ethylene glycol (toxic) antifreeze in a closed fresh water cooling system. And don’t forget oil filters and batteries are recyclable, too.
Clean all mud and plant debris from the boat, trailer, propeller, live well, and anchors before leaving the boat launch to prevent the spread of exotic species that cause severe habitat alteration and degradation.
Avoid pumping out raw sewage - if your boat doesn’t have an installed toilet, you should consider using a portable one, commonly referred to as a "port-a-potty". It should be emptied at a pump-out station or proper disposal site. Onboard holding tanks are useful, but they require pump-out facilities ashore. If possible, avoid disinfectants, which usually contain harsh chemicals.
Incident Reporting
If you notice someone polluting the water with oil, garbage or other pollutants, either accidentally or with wilful intent, report it immediately.
Who should you call to report marine pollution:
Contact: Maritime New Zealand
Free Phone: 0508 22 55 22 (NZ only)
Phone: +64 4 473 0111
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