Monday March 19th, 2001
Civilisation!
0930: We are presently motoring westwards down the Beagle Channel, having left our quiet river berth at Puerto Williams soon after 0600. The dawn was just breaking and the surface of the river like glass as we untied and motored astern to turn around in the small adjacent basin before slipping out into the harbour.
The mountains all around have a light dusting of snow on the peaks, but what stands out most is the incredible lush greenery after the lack of colours over the past couple of months.
For the first time in many days the sky is blue and the air warm. We don’t need to wear gloves, or balaclavas, or snow-goggles. There is only a light breeze coming down the Beagle. The deep blue sea is only a little ruffled. Black-browed albatross and giant petrels are in their usual spots – either snoozing the morning away, or on the wing looking for food.
The crab season has started since we left here – so there are numerous small blue and white fishing boats pottering around the edges of the Channel, or anchored in small coves off to the side.
The air is crystal clear – we can see forever – the mountains extending a long way to the west stand out sharp against the blue horizon.
Antarctica is now well behind us. It was a great experience for all of us. But we are pleased to be back.
Going our separate ways
Dan and Andy are on a flight out this afternoon – with their half tonne of filming equipment and the many hours of very valuable digital tapes. Dan’s job is now to put the three, one hour long documentaries together – back in the UK – and then TWI is planning to have them seen by 300 million people in 43 countries.
We hope that they will be back with us for the Amazon adventure later in the year. They have been an integral part of the team. Chris leaves tomorrow and Don and I are off at the end of the week for a short break.
Marc is heading for the Amazon in a few days, and Ollie, Janot and Alistair will stay with Seamaster in Ushuaia, getting her ready for the trip north to Brazil.
A few days ago while still in Antarctica, Ollie (see images) wrote the final piece for this series of Logs – they end tomorrow with a “special” Log 100, which will be a photographic “look back.”
His thoughts are as follows:
Collecting my thoughts
Alas, we are coming to the end of our first adventure to “The Antarctic Peninsula”, and I am wondering where to begin to summarise all the wonderful sights and experiences I have seen and had since arriving down here in early January.
The rugged mountainous regions, the ice, the snow, icebergs, glaciers, bergy bits, brash ice, clear water, murky water, seals, whales, penguins, birds, the good weather, the bad weather, sunsets, sunrises and so it goes on.
What a magnificent time it has been and how far we have come since our departure from Ushuaia in South America on January the 9th - not to mention the trip from New Zealand that began on the 11th of November 2000, several months ago.
Always plain sailing, no - but the great times have far outweighed the hardships and we have gained valuable experience in these conditions.
I believe all the crew would agree that the unsettling moments that were set before us to test our will and inner stamina have only reinforced our team and strengthened our resolve for the quest ahead. Antarctica is a harsh environment but it brings out the best in all and we have come through unscathed with lasting memories.
My mind is so full of wondrous tales that the saying I have used before, “Sensory Overdrive” comes to the fore and I am searching now for a brief way to share these times. It is not an easy task but we have been lucky enough to capture most on film so all can enjoy in the not too distant future.
Initially after reading and hearing old explorers and seafarer’s tales about the region, I must say I was a little apprehensive about coming down here. Don’t get me wrong, I always wanted to visit, but those slight doubts about the journey ahead always lingered close as we set forth from Ushuaia. These doubts, however, were soon allayed and I found comfort in the surroundings, as Antarctica became our home.
Naturally our fantastic lady “Seamaster” alleviated a lot of these doubts and as with crossing the Southern Ocean, she proved herself time and time again in quite difficult circumstances. Her strong, purpose-built exterior put our minds at ease and the comfortable interior was a welcome base after hard days and nights on deck, plus times away both onshore and below the surface.
I would be amiss not to mention our Captain and crew who have grown together and strengthened as a team over the last few months. I send a special thanks to their wives, girlfriends and loved ones for allowing me the privilege of having them as shipmates.
I should also speak about the amazing wildlife I have encountered on land and in the water as they have received me into their territory, as you would welcome a guest into your home. I say you get back what you give and I think most of the wonderful creatures I have met here have recognised that I meant them no harm.
Most people would think I’m crazy the way I have been talking to these creatures. However, to sit, lie or dive up close to wildlife in these remote places is a truly amazing experience that excites, exhilarates and emotionally drains.
After such embracing times it reinforces my feelings towards all life and our planet and I say to anyone, person, corporation or government who slaughters, mistreats and abuses either fellow man, animals or damages the environment, take a good look at yourself, how dare you and what gives you the right.
Maybe you should spend some time down here.
Peter and Don still work tirelessly in the Log production office and even during the days when they wonder what to produce and are working into the late hours, they have never faltered to transmit by days end, what I think is a superb publication. It is a wonderful accomplishment and I wonder whether all out there realise the effort involved.
During the trip we have also met a wonderful collection of interesting people from around the world - on bases, cruise and expedition ships plus charter yachts. I am sure all transients and travellers have enjoyed it as much as we have and to those that assisted us from time to time, and made us welcome ashore and onboard their vessels, many thanks.
I could ramble on for some time re my thoughts about our journey, however the above and the few articles I have produced for earlier logs portray my feelings.
As I write late in the evening, Seamaster is covered in ice and snow, all expedition and cruise ships have departed these waters, bases are closed or are closing and down-grading for the winter. The weather is worsening daily. It is time to leave.
In the early morning we will be departing for Ushuaia and it is with some sadness that I leave these waters. I will miss this wonderful oasis of the south but know I will return.
I hope when I do that it will still be the paradise I am leaving.
Again, many thanks for all the support of loved ones, friends and supporters; I/we could not do it without you.
It has been a wonderful experience and one I will never forget.
So onwards to the next adventure: “The Amazon”. We have a lot of research, planning and work to do, but the challenge is great and this is what makes it fun and exciting.
I can’t wait and hope you all will join us.
It’s a beautiful thing to live one’s dreams.
Best fishes,
Ollie.
Join us next time
Phase one is complete. Our first expedition is over. But it has only given us a taste for more.
We hope you will all be with us for the next one, into the rivers and jungle of the Amazon, and that you will bring as many friends for the ride as possible. The bigger the “crew” the better.
We are starting to “make a difference”.
All the best,
Peter.
Sir Peter Blake
"Having vision is not enough. Change comes through realising the vision and turning it into a reality. It is easy to espouse worthy goals, values and policies; the hard part is implementation."
Learn about Sir Peter Blake and his journeys around the globe